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Welcome to the special section “BAM 35 Years.” We are presenting “cult” articles from the Motor Boats archive, starting in 1990. A journey through time among stories unobtainable today, even in the great sea of the internet! A dive into the world of epic moments in motor boating. Here is one of the stories we were most passionate about.
From Motor Boats 1990, no. 2, April, pp. 100-109.
The second part of our French Riviera cruise resumes from Cannes and concludes in the green Porquerolles Islands. This second stretch of coast is just as mundane as the first (from Menton to Antibes) and capable of providing all the necessary amenities.
Here you can choose from three options: Port Canto, a new and well-equipped marina for boats up to 50 meters in length; Cannes Marina, another super-serviced marina; and the Old Port of Cannes. It is the latter that we recommend unless you have accommodation problems. It is in fact the most charming, positioned at the foot of the medieval stronghold that makes a good conspicuous point, with a nice waterfront and many restaurants. The harbormaster’s office is in the northeast corner of the harbor, and the gas station is at the entrance on the left. Water and electricity on all docks. The market is located in the lovely old quarter of Suquet, just behind the harbor. The major international film festival is held in May and the fireworks festival in August. Don’t miss a walk to the Croisette, a splendid waterfront full of life. From Cannes, if you don’t make a stop in the Gulf of La Napoule (where, for the record, we point out two other excellent marinas, La Rague and Mandelieu) pull straight to the large bay of Agay, about ten miles west of Cannes. It is one of the most beautiful and sheltered bays on the French Riviera; the entrance can be seen by taking the white building of the Cape Drammont lighthouse as a reference. Once inside, certainly head forAnse de Pourousset, on the west side: there is enough room inside for anchoring. But be careful to also make use of the stern anchor so as not to turn. The gorgeous spot makes use of a half-moon-shaped beach. In easterly winds, on the other hand, you will find abuon ridge on the opposite side of the Agay roadstead, just behind the Cape de la Baumette. Beware, however, of semi-surfacing rocks. Continuing our itinerary westward a must stop is St. Raphael.
Recognizable from the sea by the Byzantine-style cathedral, it is a very touristy and busy town, difficult to find a place in the old harbor. In this case we suggest you aim for the nearby marina of St. Lucia, 800 meters further east, recognizable because it is right on the tip of St. Raphael Bay, close to the islets Lion de Terre and Lion de Mer. Problematic is the passage between the former of the two and the coast. Two breakwaters delimit the double harbor, with a north and south basin totally separated by an embankment. In total, receptivity is about 1,400 berths, fuel at the entrance to the south basin, while the harbormaster’s office is at the base of the same dock. Water and electricity at each berth. In the village, worth seeing, is the Sottomarina Museum of Archaeology. The next port of call is to St. Tropez. There are no interesting bays between St. Raphael and St. Tropez, while four marinas that can serve as intermediate stops are worth mentioning: Port Ferreol, St. Peire sur Mer, St. Maxime and Port Grimaud. We particularly highlight the last two.
Well set back in the bay of St. Tropez this small town is able to offer a good overnight stop inside the breakwater. There are not many places available and with strong westerly winds there is some undertow. However, basic services (diesel, water and electricity) are provided. The walk to the upper part of the town is pleasant. Behind the harbor front are numerous small restaurants with outdoor tables.
Immediately west of St. Tropez we find what has been called the Venice of the French Riviera. All the buildings stand on recently constructed piers, forming a maze of very sheltered canals. Here you will find all the necessary facilities for boating. Refer to the marina control tower located on the main dock, where there is also a fuel station. Of course, water and electricity is available for each berth. You will not encounter problems with berth availability, given the size of the marina (1400 berths). The docks are equipped with travel lift and slip for large boats as well. Many restaurants in the port area as far as social life is concerned, nearby St. Tropez can offer plenty.
Recognizable both by the church steeple that towers over the buildings below and the stronghold at the top of the hill, this town still retains the charm that made it world famous in the 1960s; it is chic, fashionable, and frequented by high-society VIPs. A large breakwater demarcates two interconnecting basins. The old harbor is the inner one, where it is very difficult to find a place in summer, crowded as it is with pleasure boats but also fishing boats. We therefore recommend the outermost dock, immediately to the right after the inlet; the transit dock (250 places) is the one in front of the harbormaster’s office, i.e., the part of the pier between the two docks. Water and electricity at all berths, fuel on the right of the new dock. The Mistral can blow violently inside the harbor, so mooring inside the long breakwater is preferable. Needless to say, quayside life in St. Tropez is all about mundanity and “good” nights Immediately outside the harbor to the east is theAnse des Canoubiers, which offers good shelter from the southerly winds and in stable weather the possibility of a swim in pleasant scenery. At this point it is worth directing the bow toward what is considered the most beautiful sea place in Provence, the Hyeres Islands. Just incidentally we point out that to the east of St. Tropez on the mainland there are two pleasant bays: the Baie de Pampelonne and the Baie de Cavalaire, which in turn contain other small coves, among which we point out theBaie de Bon Port, north of Cap Taillat, well protected by Mistral with a pretty beach and whose entrance must be done carefully because of the presence of numerous rocks. In addition, the harbors of Cavalaire and Le Lavandou offer excellent and convenient ridges.
Coming from the east, the first of the Hyeres isIle du Levant where, however, landing is prohibited in 80 percent of the territory, apart from the western area, because it is a military base. Keep no less than 200 meters from the shore. The next island, Port Cros, magnificent vegetation and turquoise waters, offers two good ridges: the first is the harbor, a bay that opens to the west of the island with the fort well in view, also used by pirates until last century. You’ll anchor in front of the small town on a medium-tight algal bottom, paying attention to some shallow water. Sa-you will be well protected from almost all winds except Mistral and Tramontana. Visit thecove of Port Man, with a small beach and a small fort on the eastern tip bordering the entrance. In a wonderful quarry you will anchor in 7/10 meters of clear water. Prohibited to dock at the buoy in the center of the bay, reserved for military ships. Both Port Cros and Bagaud, the nearby islet to the west, are national parks: inquire about regulations for mooring and landing at the port information office you will find on the north quay. Be aware in any case that access to Bagaud is prohibited.Porquerolles Island, which we recommend for an extended stop, is the westernmost of the group, just opposite the Giens Peninsula. Let’s start with the harbor. It is a true splendor in a setting of antiquities (such as the 14th-century fort that is also a conspicuous point) and lush vegetation with the eucalyptus and pine trees that reach all the way to the shore. It is well sheltered from all winds although the Mistral forces a reinforced mooring. At the entrance you will be presented with the brush pier with the harbor office, where you will be assigned a berth. Next to it is the fuel station. Water and electricity for each berth. There are 500 places and to find one you must arrive before 4 p.m. From here you can take beautiful walks in the interior of the island, with the possibility of renting bicycles. If you really can’t find a place inside the harbor, a beautiful bay with plenty of beach, go to anchor at theanse du Bon Renaud, half a mile further west. You will anchor on a 5/6-meter sand and seaweed bottom, keeping in the center of the cove.
You will be exposed to northern winds but well sheltered from Mistral. The most beautiful bay on the island is in our opinion the westernmost one, the Baie de Langousteier, close to theislet Petit Langoustier, clearly recognizable by the blockhouse: the passage between the latter and the coast of the island is inadvisable due to the presence of numerous shallows. You will anchor in front of the beach on a 3/4-meter algid seabed of mediocre hold. You will be well ridged with winds from offshore but with Mistral you will have to leave your mooring. The last bay we point out is to the east of the island,Anse La Galere, quiet and well protected by Mistral, with two small beaches on the shore. Seabed of 5/6 meters of rock and seaweed and open to easterly winds. Spectacular sheer cliffs around. Five miles from the port of Porquerolles we find St. Pierre, the largest port in Provence with more than 1,500 berths. Palivestre airport is nearby. There are three docks, and the southernmost one is the closest to the town. You will report to the transit dock at the ends of the harbormaster’s embankment to inquire where to moor. The fuel station is at the head of the same dock. The harbor has good facilities, power and water for every seat, and there is a slipway for small boats, good slipways, several boatyards, and the commercial center for supplies. Go see the medieval old town and in particular the 12th-century Topur Saint Blaise, adjacent to St. Paul’s Church. Hyeres has an old tradition as a seaside resort and even Napoleon, Tolstoy and Queen Victoria have been its guests.
by Antonio Drai
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