1993. Greece cruise: Ithaca and the others

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Ithaca and the others

From Motor Boats 1993, no. 6, July, pp. 60-66.

For centuries contended by sailors throughout the Mediterranean, today only by tourists, the islands of Homer and Foscolo have an enviable geographic location. Mountainous and verdant, with elegant Venetian-style villages, they offer safe shores and numerous shelters to those who visit them by boat.

When one speaks of the Greek islands, the thought immediately goes to the Aegean. But the Ionian Islands are something else entirely, different in landscape, architecture, scents and atmosphere. So much so that they do not even share the distinctly insular character of their sisters. All very close to the coast, with which they have always maintained a dense network of trade, the Ionian Islands in fact have never been marginalized, not even at the time of Turkish rule. In addition, their geographic position of primary commercial and strategic importance fostered their role as a link between the East and the West, especially during their long affiliation with the Republic of Venice. Because of their gentle, lush landscape, combined with a mild, breezy climate, the Ionian islands offer a gradual approach to the more violent and sunny vistas of the rest of Greece, not to mention the fact that the villages often have a footprint that is familiar and makes us feel almost at home. There are six major islands: Corfu (Kerkira), Paxos (Paxi), Lèvkas, Ithaca (Thäki), Kefalonia (Kefalonid), and Zakynthos (Zäkinthos), but the Greeks call the archipelago “Eptanissio” (of seven islands), as they include the southernmost Kythira (Kythira), which lies south of the Peloponnese. They are all green and mountainous, with craggy, generally safe coastlines where anchorage possibilities are uncountable. And if the variety and beauty of the landscape, as well as its proximity to Italy, are enough in themselves to make it an attractive destination, ideal weather conditions during the summer, with regular, moderate winds, provide one more reason for boaters. Unfortunately, the islanders have done little in recent years to increase or improve facilities for nautical tourism, which, on the other hand, is steadily increasing.

Most charter companies have chosen Corfu as their base, which has the archipelago’s only marina and is the best connected with both mainland Greece and abroad. And Corfu is also the first stop for those making the crossing from Brindisi or Otranto, less than 100 miles away. In this regard, it should not be forgotten that the Otranto Channel is among the most treacherous areas in the Mediterranean, as the narrow strait formed between the Apulian and Albanian coasts causes increased wind and sea force, and should be tackled only after being well informed about the weather forecast. To reach the marina of Gouvia and the town of Corfu on the eastern side, one must pass from the north into the narrow channel between the island and the coast, which for a short stretch is still Albanian territory: be careful not to go more than halfway through because the security service is among the strictest in the world. The archipelago stretches from north to south within 150 miles, and a two-week cruise is enough to go from Corfu to Zakynthos and back (crossing from Italy not included). However, the abundance of ridges and smaller islets means that even those with more time will not be bored. The itinerary we propose goes down to Zakynthos touching mainly the eastern coasts of the islands, ridged by the prevailing winds, to go up to Lèvkas through the islets of the so-called Inland Sea (in this area you will sometimes encounter a breeze coming from the South instead of the classic Northwest) and reach Paxos and Corfu again.

Corfu to Paxos

Lush vegetation, where the dark color of the cypresses stands out among the olive and orange groves, golden beaches and beautiful villas: this is how the island of Corfu appears to those coming from offshore, in stark contrast to the desolation of the nearby Albanian coast. If, on the other hand, you have rented a boat at Gouvia Marina, the impact will not be as idyllic. Although the bay is quite beautiful, tree-lined, spacious, and protected from all winds, the marina completely lacks charm, disheveled by eternal construction and not even overly equipped. There are, however, several grocery stores nearby that will be able to supply you directly on board by van. Corfu town is just three miles away, also easily reached by bus (but we recommend leaving it as the last stop on the itinerary). Not wanting to spend the night at the marina, you can move to the delightful bay of Pagania, on the coast opposite Gouvia. Almost completely enclosed by a promontory, surrounded by hills and some farms, it is a quiet anchorage, good shelter from all quadrants. From here you can begin the descent to Paxos. At the southern tip of Corfu, the small island of Sivota and the village of Mourtos can be a pleasant intermediate stop. The best anchorage for the night is in the channel between the headland and the island of Agios Nikolaos (the southern passage is impassable because of shallow waters). The small port of Mourtos is always busy during the summer season: you can reach it by tender to dine in some taverns and then return to the silence of the roadstead. Heading decidedly south, one arrives after a short sail to the island of Paxos, which, with neighboring Antipaxos, is one of the liveliest places in the entire archipelago. The entrance from the north into the Porto Gaios fjord on the east coast formed by the islets of Agios Nikolaos and Panagia is always exciting, but the crowding along the quay and in the village is indescribable. You need to arrive at the harbor well before sunset if you want to find a place on the quay near the square, a meeting point for islanders and tourists. Otherwise, we recommend spending the night at anchor in the access channel with a grounded line on the masts. Fuel is available near the dock, but you will have to carry it yourself with jerry cans, while water can be obtained with difficulty early in the morning from a tap. The smallest of the Greater Ionian Islands (it measures 10 km from end to end, with a maximum width of 4) can be traveled almost entirely on foot, amidst the greenery of cypresses, vines and olive trees. A particularly impressive time to stop there is August 15, when the small island of Panagia is the site of a festival that ends with a grand ball in the square of Gaios.

En route to Paxos

Thirty miles of open sea await you from Paxos to the Lèvkas Channel, where a bridge about two meters above sea level is opened for boats to pass through about every half hour (but it could be as little as an hour) from dawn to dusk. The Venetian Santa Maura, for centuries a den of pirates, is now little more than an ugly cluster of modern houses, rebuilt in the 1960s after the latest in a long series of disastrous earthquakes. The only thing of interest, besides the folk festival held there in late August, is the diesel station at the beginning of the canal. The Gulf of Lèvkas, on the other hand, is one of the most beautiful corners of the Mediterranean, with a wide choice of bays among which to navigate, always redolent of the sea. Worth a stop is the small island of Skorpios, a wonderful botanical and marine paradise that belongs to the heirs of the famous shipowner Aristotle Onassis. On the north side a couple of bays are available to tourists, but no walking is allowed on the island, which is guarded day and night. Opposite Skorpios the deep inlet of Porto Vlikho, on the east coast of Lèvkas, offers perfect shelter for the night. The cove, surrounded by olive trees, is in fact almost completely enclosed and accessed by a narrow passage to the north near the town of Nidri. The water is not as clear as elsewhere, but the anchorage is quiet and safe, with a few restaurants and small stores on the shore and in the only village. Slightly further south, beyond the passage between Lèvkas and Meganisi, the cove of Sivota, good shelter from all directions, is a favorite destination for many flotillas, thanks in part to the kindness and helpfulness of Stavros and Yanni, owners of two taverns, near which a pier has recently been built.

Ithaca and Cephalonia

From here you can set course directly for Fiskardo, at the northern end of Kefalonia. In the village there are excellent restaurants, especially seafood, a supermarket, a grocery store and a bakery, but no water or fuel. On the harbor is the Tassos bar, “The Captain’s Lodging,” a meeting place for the many yachtsmen who call there. On the nearby west coast of Ithaca near Porto Polis are the remains of what is generally considered to be the palace of Odysseus. Despite scant archaeological evidence, it is in fact Ithaca that is the favorite in the centuries-old dispute with Lèvkas to be recognized as the homeland of the Homeric hero. With rugged mountains and verdant valleys, the island is one of the most beautiful corners of the Ionian Islands, but the only ports are along the eastern coast. Vathi, in a deep inlet, is the most important, though it does not offer many facilities: it is therefore preferable to call at the small ports of Kioni or Frikes, further north, both in a nice location and with numerous small restaurants (beware of strong gusts when the northwest blows). From Fiskardo to the small, well-sheltered marina of St. Euphemia, where you can find water and fuel, the coast of Kefalonia forms wide, beautiful and generally uncrowded bays where you can anchor close to the beach, since the wind almost always blows from land. There is no reason, on the other hand, to call at Sami, the main port (where some of the Procians, Penelope’s suitors, came from), which has preserved very little of its past.

Destination Zakynthos

Sailing to Zakynthos, the southernmost island in the archipelago, is almost all offshore. As a first stop you can stop in the small bay abutting the islet of Agios Nikolaos at the northwestern end, where there are only a few taverns. Near Cape Skinari you can visit the Blue Cave, a complex of sea caves where water and sun create incredible lighting effects. The only but complete supply center is the east coast capital Zäkinthos, rebuilt after the 1953 earthquake as closely as possible to the original, with its characteristic arcades. Rich in vines, figs, olives, oranges, and lemons, the island, home of Foscolo, was called “the flower of the Levant” by the Venetians. From Zakynthos onward, sailing up the Ionian Islands is all against sea and wind, but after the first and longest leg to reach Oxia, in the Inland Sea, you will find several anchorages all very close together. In front of the Gulf of Astakos, the Dragonera group is made up of numerous rocky, deserted islets: it is an area little traveled by boats while still offering good ridges (the best is to the east of the island of Petala). Offshore, remote and lonely, is the island of Atoko. If the weather is good, you can stop in the bay with the clearest water that opens up on the eastern side. Continuing north, don’t miss Meganisi, a true jewel of the archipelago, although unfortunately always very busy during the summer. The most beautiful anchorages are in the northern part of the island, where there are some very deep and well sheltered bays. Of all of them we recommend the one called Porto Atheni, which opens between two rocky points. Continuing north there is a small harbor at the foot of the village of Spartakhari, on the hill, where you have to climb to do your shopping: it is worth it because the view is exceptional. After passing through the Levkas Channel again, this time in the opposite direction, you will encounter after a few miles the town of Preveza, at the entrance to the Gulf of Amvrakia. A series of buoys delineates the dredged channel of access to the harbor, in which the current can sometimes touch three knots of speed. Although Preveza is a commercial port, the town is pleasant enough, full of stores and craft stores, excellent for supplies and shopping. A thirty-mile transfer leg will take you back to Paxos, where you can call at Lakka, on the northern tip. The bay, which offers excellent shelter from the Mistral, is pretty but inexorably crowded in summer with several small restaurants on the shore and a small village.

Return to Corfu

Before returning the boat to Gouvia or heading back out to the Italian coast, the last destination not to be missed is the elegant town of Corfu, the island’s capital. You can stop in the small harbor to the south or reach the old port on the north side of the town, after rounding the promontory on which the citadel stands. It is always best to arrive in the morning, to find room along the breakwater and to maneuver more easily before the wind picks up. There are many things to see in and around the city, starting with the Archaeological Museum (hours 8:30 a.m.-3 p.m., closed Mondays), which is accessed from the famous Splanada, a beautiful lawn square where the Venetians used to do military maneuvers and today cricket is played, a custom inherited from the British, Embellished by the beautiful facades of old palaces and gardens the Splanada is bordered by the Liston, the 19th-century arcade that with its cafes is somewhat the center of local life. A bridge leads to the Old Fortress, built in the 16th century on the promontory where theAcropolis once stood.

by Cristina Griner

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