1993. Mauritius, the island of colors

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Mauritius, the island of colors

From Motor Boats 1993, no. 1, February, pp. 52-58

Off-white beaches and volcanic rocks, surrounded by lush nature and endless shades of blue. Here is Mauritius, pearl of the Indian Ocean.

Dazzlingly white beaches, shiny black volcanic rocks, immense sugarcane and deep green tea plantations. Then the endless shades of blue in which sea and sky are lost and blurred, the bright red of the flowers along the streets and the faces of the people, a miscellany of races and colors unique in the world. On this remote island in theIndian Ocean, off the coast of Madagascar, three different continents and peoples who have come from afar, from Africa, Asia and Europe, each with their own language, culture, religion, all with the same gentle and discreet ways, meet and mingle. Indians, Chinese, Creoles, Africans, descendants of ancient French and English settlers coexist peacefully offering a rare example of tolerance and civilization. Mauritius is a small paradise sixty kilometers long and forty kilometers wide, where the nature of the tropics manifests itself in all its exuberance, the fish, numerous and colorful, are enormous because of the abundance of food found in these waters, and the mountains have singular shapes that are so reminiscent of those best known of the Polynesian islands. The coasts are largely protected by the nearby coral reef. Long white beaches with calm, clear waters on the western side, jagged black and ochre shorelines on the eastern side. A dream for those who like to dive and are looking for a particularly rich sea, a well-organized destination for deep-sea fishing. The climate is inviting throughout most of the year, with the only exception of July and August, which correspond to winter.

Surrounded by coral reefs

The solutions for a vacation in Mauritius are many and varied, from a five-star hotel to a private bungalow to rent by the sea. The best hotels organize day boat trips along the coast, and in the major resorts you will find several charter agencies with which to make arrangements to take a longer cruise around the island or reach the nearby Rodriguez archipelago. In Mauritius there is no such thing as a skippered boat charter. In fact, the entire island, except for short stretches, is surrounded by coral reefs, located at a distance of about one mile along the west coast and two and a half miles along the east coast. There are several openings, called “passe,” to access the interior of the reef, where many areas are largely navigable, but it is necessary to be well acquainted with the places and the tidal currents, which in some cases touch as much as 5 knots, in order not to run into danger. For diving, the best-equipped dive centers are at hotels on the west coast, where qualified instructors offer both courses for acquiring international patents and accompanied trips and can provide all equipment. For deep-sea fishing enthusiasts, there are several centers specializing in “big game” where modern fisherman are rented to reach, beyond the reef, the most fishy areas and hunt for marlin, tuna and other coveted prey of which this sea is particularly rich.

Clear and turquoise waters

Our tour around the island can only start from Grand Baie, the most famous, touristy, equipped and fully usable of the coastal resorts. It is located on the northwest coast, some 20 kilometers north of the capital Port Louis. Hotels, clothing and handicraft stores, restaurants and nightclubs overlook the bay with incredibly clear and turquoise waters, so round that it is completely sheltered. Here you will have the opportunity to practice all kinds of water sports, rent boats of all kinds, bicycles, mopeds and even a helicopter. You can take fishing trips and excursions in the surrounding area, from Coin de Mire toIle Plate andIle Ronde. This is the most beautiful area on the entire island for diving, and due to a strange conformation of the seabed you will find the most extensive corals and the most fish. Diving takes place both within the bay and in the area that extends to the uninhabited island of Coin de Mire, just opposite. To the southwest, beyond Pointe aux Cannoniers, opens Mon Choisy, one of the best and busiest beaches, literally invaded on holidays. Not far away, near Trou aux Biches, is Argonaute, one of the authorized stores in the sale of shells. The seabed around the island, in fact, is extremely rich in rare shells, and to protect this heritage the government stipulated that the collection was regulated by licenses and the sale took place only at specialized stores.

The wonders of the botanical garden

Inland, between Grand Baie and the capital, is the Pamplemousses Botanical Garden, a complete example of the island’s natural beauty, twenty hectares of land home to numerous, even rare, species of plants and flowers. Admission is free (Mauritians like to spend Sundays there), but for a modest fee you can have a local guide accompany you: he will tell you all about the wonders of giant Amazonian water lilies and over 100-year-old palm trees. There were once forests of ebony and majestic trees in Mauritius, greatly reduced today in their extent to make way for the cultivation of sugar cane, the island’s greatest resource, and the tea plant. You can combine the excursion to Pamplemousses with a visit to the large covered market in Port Louis (mornings only), teeming with people and voices. Fruits and vegetables of the most unusual qualities for us are arranged with great care on the long stalls, among spices of all kinds and origins and healing herbs. In one part of the market are the small stores with handicrafts, textiles, model ships, trinkets and shells.

Between pristine nature and ancient wrecks

Descending along the west coast, several hotel facilities blend discreetly into the vegetation, behind a long strip of clear sand protected by a coral reef. This is interrupted in front of the Grande Rivière Noire, whose estuary forms a wide and deep bay, where numerous boats are moored and from which big game fishing trips depart. In the background is the Piton de la Rivière Noire, more than 800 meters high, and to the south the distinctive silhouette of the mountainous tip of Le Morne. But the most enchanting coastline is undoubtedly that which runs from Le More to Souillac, on the southern side of the island. The best anchorage along this stretch of coastline is in Jacotet Bay, the scene of a famous naval battle that took place back in 1810. Near Sancho islet the low tide reveals the anchor of an old sailing ship imprisoned in the coral and an old cannon. After Pointe aux Roches and the Surinam estuary, the village of Souillac, perched on high cliffs, offers a striking contrast to the quiet beaches of the north. Here the reef breaks for 9 miles and the dark blue sea bangs the rocky, dark coastline, framed by the bright green vegetation that reaches down to the water. Here and there deep beaches open up. It is always the southern part of the island that also offers the most beautiful views inland, in the Savanne region. The best way to visit it is by cab (you can rent it for half a day): you will avoid getting lost in a maze of narrow streets and the driver will also act as your guide.

A land of violent contrasts

Stops at the Grand Bassin, with its lake sacred to Hindus where you can attend religious services, the colorful lands of Chamarel, an expanse of the most incredible hues, and the Gorges de la Rivière Noire, from the top of which you can enjoy a grandiose panorama, from the forests to the sea, are a must. Not far from Souillac you can visit La Vanille Crocodile Farm, an original zoo with the island’s most typical fauna. At the southeastern end of Mauritius, not far from the only airport, the town of Mahébourg overlooks Grand Port Bay, where the Dutch once landed, before the French and then the British. The ancient capital is divided into two parts by the Rivière la Chaux: on one side is Mahébourg, on the other the Ville Noire, the Black City, connected by a bridge. Newly touched by tourism on the beaches of Blue Bay and Poin d’Esny, Mahébourg exudes an old-world charm. The large bay, protected by the reef and dotted with islets, is perfect for sailing and important regattas are held there. But the most famous resort on the eastern side is undoubtedlyIle aux Cerfs, opposite the Le Touessrok hotel, very close to the coast. Once deserted and unspoiled, it is now somewhat touristy, but worth stopping for at least a day. The shallow waters form pools of calm, transparent water that are incredibly inviting for swimming, and on the long, white sandy beaches, black, shiny volcanic rock pebbles create violent contrasts. Near the ‘jetty are all the facilities: two restaurants, a bar, several stalls, showers and public toilets, rental of pedal boats, kayaks, hobie cat, lasers and water skis. One has to stray a bit to the more distant beaches to rediscover the tranquility of yesteryear, but those seeking contact with a still intact, wild and quiet nature can always choose the tiny Ile de l’Est, separated fromIle aux Cerfs by an arm of sea a few dozen meters wide. Further north on the coast is Trou d’Eau Douce, a small village renowned for oysters and shrimp farming. Some beautiful beaches, including Roches Noires and Poste La Fayette and one of the country’s most prestigious hotels, the St. Géran, line the northeast coast, which culminates to the north with the fishing village of Cap Malheureux.

Information on the meteorology of Mauritius

Mauritius is a tropical island beaten by trade winds from the southeast. A dry season and a wet season cannot be clearly defined. The hottest time of the year corresponds to our winter, from January to March-April, with average temperatures above 30°C: this is the most pleasant season, along with the months from September to November. The “coldest” period is from July to September, with temperatures ranging from 14 to 22 degrees. In the center of the island, at an altitude of about 600 meters, temperatures are about 5 °C lower than those recorded along the coast. Mauritius is prone to cyclones, which bring only rain if they develop far away, but can cause severe damage if they are close by. The island is hit by a strong cyclone on average every 5 years.

The island kitchen

The cuisine of Mauritius is the result of a mixture of African, European and Asian specialties, adapted to local products. It consists of many fish and seafood dishes, exotic and spicy recipes. Prominent among the ingredients are tomatoes, known as “pommes d’amour,” which color the dishes, onions and garlic, which flavor them, and ginger, which tantalizes. The rich and heavy gravies of the French settlers have been adapted to the warm climate. Two typical sauces are raugaille and vindaye, which are very different: the former, tomato-based, is served hot, the latter, cold with mustard, seeds and vinegar. Heart of palm, venison and wild boar meat, and camaron are the favorite specialties of today’s Franco-Mauritian inhabitants, while Indian cuisine constitutes the most important strand of modern Mauritian cuisine. Hindu cuisine has the ability to bind fish, vegetables, and meat (except beef) with exotic spices that enhance the flavors. Muslims, on the other hand, like to feast on briani, a tasty mixture of rice, potatoes, spices, and meat. Chinese immigrants imported the regional cuisines of Beijing, Canton, and Sechuan. Heart of palm is undoubtedly the most sought-after specialty and ties in especially well with smoked marlin.

Shopping tips

Mauritian handicrafts produce: spices, pottery, traditional musical instruments, wicker objects, textiles, embroidery, and woodworking, among which model ships are particularly developed. Made based on the original designs obtained from maritime museums, the models are in all respects faithful to the originals. In Curepipe visit the Comajora factory, whose models are based on designs from the Paris and Greenwich Marine Museums.

Useful tips for traveling to Mauritius: click here

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