1998. Corsica, a stranger by chance

Stranger by chance

From Boats to Motor 1998, no. 4, May, pp. 68-73.

From Cap Corse to Cargese and from Bonifacio to Ajaccio: two itineraries to rediscover the Ile de Beautè, a favorite of Italians.

We are magnetically attracted every summer to this island of surprising resources, which we Italians insist on considering a little bit our own. It may be because of the great variety of its landscapes, the countless landings, which allow us to invent a different cruise each time, or perhaps just because of the somewhat French atmosphere in its ports. And the spell is repeated each time, in spite of the inevitable crowding in August, the often unpredictable weather conditions, and the not-so-favorable exchange rate. With the exception of the eastern slope between Bastia and Porto Vecchio, low over the sea and marshy in places, Corsica ‘s coasts are largely high and rocky and offer an ‘alternation of natural environments unobtainable elsewhere: from the white limestone cliffs of Bonifacio in the south to the purple rocks of the Scandola Reserve in the west to the black beaches of Cape Corso. And, in between. the white fine sand dunes of the Des Agriates Desert. What more could you ask for? Moreover, a few hours of crossing are enough to reach it, and small boats can count on intermediate stops such asElba and Capraia, facing no more than 20 to 30 milia of open sea. For those who want to circumnavigate the island, we recommend doing so counterclockwise, since the prevailing winds in summer are northwesterly, but for the classic cruise of a couple of weeks it is far preferable to choose a shorter itinerary, which will not only leave you time to appreciate even the lesser-known and discounted ports of call, but will also allow you a decidedly more relaxed pace. Weather conditions, in fact, are subject to sudden changes, especially on the West Coast, being influenced by Atlantic disturbances transiting France, and a Mistral blow could even force you to take a few days of forced rest. But fear not, for the classic summer breezes, which pleasantly mitigate the heat, are by far prevalent, and Corsican ports, though not too numerous, are fairly well distributed along the coast, offering safe shelter and a pleasant stopover, good restaurants and interesting excursions. We propose two itineraries, both along the west coast: from Cape Corso to Cargese (about 70 miles), for those coming from the north, and from the Straits of Bonifacio to Ajaccio (50/60 miles), for those coming from the south.

Cape Corso to Cargese

The lighthouse of the Giraglia, by night, and the outline of Cape Corso, by day, guide the landing in Corsica. And if Macinaggio, to the east of the cape, is the ideal port of call for those coming from eastern Liguria and the northernmost ports of Tuscany, those departing from San Remo and its environs can head straight for the western side of the “finger,” at the root of which lies the port of St. Florent. The coasts of the Cap Corse offer no other truly safe landings, but some pleasant bathing anchorages, such as the stretch of water bounded by the islets of Finocchiarola, immediately north of Macinaggio, and the subsequent roadstead of Santa Maria. Less attractive, and equally open to wind and sea, are Marina di Barcaggio and Marina di Tollare, opposite GiragliaIsland. Always with good weather, one can also stop for the night in front of the village of Centuri, the first one encountered coming down the west coast, sheltered by the islet of the same name. The small harbor is too small and cluttered with the local fishing boats to offer shelter to boaters, but one can disembark there with a tender for a dinner of lobster and very fresh fish. About ten miles north of St. Florent, Marina di Giottani, hemmed in by a beautiful black pebble beach opens up between rocky and craggy shores, but is completely exposed to westerly winds. If you plan to stop in St. Florent, call the port management in good time to secure a berth: the slipway in summer is perpetually packed with boats and the anchorage in the roadstead somewhat shaky. The small enough town is pleasant but unexceptional and the docks, just in front of the waterfront, rather noisy. St. Florent is excellent, however, for services and food supplies, and there is no shortage of good restaurants. If the sea is calm, take advantage of it for one of the best swims of the cruise in front of Saleccia Beach, in the nearby Des Agriates Desert, where the transparency of the water on the white sand bottom creates reflections of the deepest turquoise.

Just past Punta Mortella, Cala Mafalco is a small oasis, with cypress and eucalyptus trees lapping the sea. The shelter is decent, but only to be kept in mind in good weather. Just over 9 miles separate you from l‘Ile Rousse, a beautiful peninsula that juts northward for about a mile. There are two anchorages: to the east where there is a ferry dock and you are fairly sheltered from westerly winds, or to the west, covered by Tramontana and Grecale, provided they are not very strong. Despite the lack of a real port, L‘Ile Rousse is worth a stop. Here you can, among other things, rent an all-terrain vehicle to drive into the incredible Des Agriates desert, which stretches as far as St. Florent. Just before Punta Spano, four miles from Calvi, is the small marina of St. Ambrose, but in summer it is almost impossible to find a place there. Even in Calvi, immediately recognizable by its ramparts overlooking the harbor, try to arrive early to find a berth in the busy marina (there is also a good number of buoys in front of the beach, obviously for a fee, for boats in transit). Corsican St. Tropez, bustling and teeming, will offer you a very pleasant stopover if you know how to lose yourself in its alleys up to the citadel, among stores, cafes and restaurants. After Punta Revellata and theFocolara Bight begins the most beautiful stretch of the entire coast, but also the most rugged and exposed(Ajaccio is over 50 miles away). Superb red porphyry cliffs overhanging a cobalt-blue sea, clefts in the rock leading to natural pools: we are in the Scandola Nature Reserve, where fishing and stopping for more than 24 hours are prohibited. The ‘anchorage not to be missed is Marina d’Elbo, a narrow gully dominated by a Genoese tower with a small clear beach at the bottom. With absolutely calm seas one can enter the narrow and exciting passage between the coast and Gargalo Island. Beyond Punta Scandola, the gulf of Girolata constitutes the best shelter in the area, but with southwesterly winds there is a dangerous undertow. In contrast, the wide gulf of Porto, despite its name, offers no shelter. In good weather, the last stop will be Cargese, where a small harbor offers shelter to a few boats and it is easier to anchor northeast of the pier, to disembark with a tender. The village, founded by a colony of Greeks in the 17th century, is absolutely unique and retains the flavor of the most characteristic Aegean ports of call.

Bonifacio to Ajaccio

The arrival in the Mouths, from any direction, is absolutely grand, with the white cliffs of Bonifacio in the background and a myriad of bizarrely shaped granite rocks emerging here and there from the sea. But it is precisely to these rocks, outcropping and semi-submerged, that the utmost attention must be paid: so, very detailed charts in hand and, if necessary, man on the bow, since the absolute transparency of the water allows one to widely perceive the seabed. Between Lavezzi, a protected natural park, and Cavallo, where a tiny marina has been built, are the most fantastic anchorages of the Mouths. In Cavallo, Cala di Zeri and Cala Greco are good with southerly and westerly winds, while with easterly winds Cala Giunco is excellent. In Lavezzi you can count on Cala Greco, open only to the northeast, while the splendid Cala Lazzarina, an authentic maze of rocks but perfectly sheltered in all weather, is closed to boats in high season. On the nearby coast, don’t miss the anchorage of Punta Sprono, in crystal-clear waters in front of a small beach with sand dunes surrounded by high rocks at the top of which is Corsica‘s finest golf course. The narrow crevice of access to the Bonifacio Fjord is barely distinguishable behind Punta Madonnetta, but the entrance is actually smooth, even in heavy seas. In August finding dock space is not easy, and alternatively one can anchor in one of the two small gullies and disembark with a tender. A must, but absolutely not to be missed, is the ascent to the Citadel, with breathtaking views of all the Straits. Immediately northwest of Bonifacio are two wonderful coves for swimming and also for overnight stops in stable weather, Cala Paragnano and Cala Fazzuolo. From here to Propriano is a succession of superb anchorages, open only in Libeccio. The safest is in Figari Bay, deep and jagged, surrounded by Mediterranean scrub, within which a small marina has recently been built. Don’t miss Cala Fornello and Cala di Roccapina, with water of an incredible turquoise color, rocks scattered along the shores and a large white beach. This whole stretch is most enjoyable in good weather, but if conditions worsen or to refuel, you have to reach the port of Propriano at the end of the gulf of Valinco, which lacks charm but is very well served and absolutely safe. Pleasant, on the other hand, are the anchorages in front of Campomoro and Porto Pollo, in the same gulf, redoubtable to Libeccio and Maestrale, respectively. Continuing north, one can stop at the large bay of Cupabia, protected from the northwest, at Punta Castagna and Punta di Sette Navi. Ajaccio, with its two ports of the Citadel and Amirauté, is only 4 miles away. Both are well served and equipped, but we definitely recommend the former, right under the walls of the old fort, right in the center of town. And after so much sea, the city of Ajaccio, where almost everything is named after Napoleon, will offer you a pleasant land stop, discovering Corsican history, crafts and good food.

by Cristina Griner

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