2001. Cuba and its islands. Navigating the places of Hemingway’s heart.

Welcome to the special section “BAM 35 Years.” We are presenting “cult” articles from the Motor Boats archive, starting in 1990. A journey through time among stories unobtainable today, even in the great sea of the internet! A dive into the world of epic moments in motor boating. Here is one of the stories we were most passionate about.

Cuba and its islands

From Motor Boats 2001, no. 9, October, pp. 70-75.

There are 350 south of the capital Havana, grouped in the Cannarreos Archipelago. Inaccessible to mass nautical tourism, almost uninhabited and with one of the most beautiful seas in the Caribbean. Discover them with us as we sail from “cayo to cayo.”

Hundreds of small islands stretch along Cuba’s 1,200 kilometers of coastline. In a land where land-based tourism has been booming for years now, these small paradises remain partly off the usual itineraries. Pristine places in which to swim among manta rays, see sea turtles swim on the reef letting themselves be carried away by the gentle current. TheCanarreos Archipelago is still all of this. Three hundred and fifty cayos (as the islands are called here) stretch eighty miles between Cayo Largo and theIsle of Youth, three hundred and fifty pearls protected by a coral reef that still retains all its beauty intact. Colorful fish, tongues of white sand and chiringuiti on the beach. Perhaps savoring a freshly prepared lobster on the grill.

Sailing from cayo to cayo

Even if the goal is to escape the crowds, Cayo Largo, known for being frequented by elegant tourism, deserves attention. White sand and clear water are the hallmark of the twenty-five miles of beach that wind all along the island’s south coast. After swimming at Playa Sirena and a bit of snorkeling on the facing reef, one can lift one’s moorings and immerse oneself in the fragrant and quiet nature of the rest of the archipelago. There are many stops not to be missed. Cayo Alcatraz, for example, is famous for its sandy channels and manta rays that swim undisturbed just a few meters from you; in Cayo Rico, on the other hand, the spectacle of the expanses of iguanas that seem to go crazy for spaghetti is not to be missed.

It then turns to Cayo Rosario, where divers can dive on the reef surrounding the small lighthouse, where the corals become particularly dense and brightly colored. The same goes for Cayo Ballenatos, whose crisp water makes the task of photo divers even easier. Some passages between islands are also not to be missed, an example being that between Cayo Rosario and Cayo Cantiles, where it is possible to visit the monkey colony that has now become the island’s mistress. In Cayo Avalos, on the other hand, one can see the remains of an unusual military garrison. If time permits, then Cayo Tortuga, where reptiles come to lay their eggs in June, and Cayo los Pajaros, a natural paradise for many bird species, are not to be missed. Once in sight of theIsle of Youth, you should not consider your vacation over. For even this island, although the proportions are different, retains places of renowned beauty, one example being the Punta del Frances area, unparalleled for diving. Not to mention the lush northern area; if you don’t have time to tour the interior ofIsla Grande, take the opportunity to get a feel for it. Remember that sailing between the Cayos presents no particular problems, but it is always best to adhere to a few rules. Given the narrow channels between islands, it is good to pay attention to shallow waters and outcropping corals. Also, where possible, it is advisable to sail inside the reef, both because the sea is calmer and so that you can always be ready to bottom in some cove spotted at the last moment. There are plenty of safe anchorages during the night; with the wind almost always coming from the northeast, it is recommended to stay as far south as possible, so as to make the most of the sheltering. It is possible to get close to shore and then land with the tender, or stay where the water is a little deeper and take advantage of some shoals to anchor.

The paradise of deep-sea fishing

The entire area around the Canarreos is a marine reserve, but given the prevalence of fishing, boats equipped for the sport are easy to find in both Cayo Largo andYouth Island. For outings, generally on a daily basis, it is therefore necessary to contact the authorized centers. You can fish with different techniques but, to bite most commonly are always sailfish, swordfish, tuna, mackerel and barracuda. The area, precisely because it is protected is very fishy and this guarantees some results even for novices. The suggestion, then, is to end a relaxing day of sea and sun in style by grilling a freshly caught skipjack.

A visit to Havana

To vacation in Cuba by not spending even a couple of days inHavana is truly a shame. It seems to have stopped in the 1920s, big cars still all bombed out and motorcycles with sidecars whizz by at intersections, while a strange air, suspended between the surreal and the dusty, envelops the surroundings. A city that surely deserves all the charm that has always been attributed to it. The people are sunny, happy to party and be kind to the tourist, the squares are colorful, the markets crowded, and the clubs very lively. Music is really one of the basic components of their life. Especially not to be missed is the old part, once a bad area but now redeveloped and, indeed, very quaint.

See the Plaza de la Catedral, where a backdrop of baroque palaces opens up, and the Plaza de Armas, surrounded by what were once the residences of Spanish governors. Devotees must also pass by Plaza de la Revolucion, a symbolic place for the immense political gatherings held there in the 1960s. Walk down Paseo Martí to the Malecon, the striking waterfront famous for being the place of lovers. From here you can continue the walk to La Rampa, and dive into the life of one of the busiest streets in the area. There are many hotels, restaurants and clubs here. It can be nice to end the day sitting at a small table on the sidewalk and watching people go by while enjoying a mojito.

Where to stay

Havana: The Hotel Nacional, dating from 1934, is located at the corner of Calle 21 and Calle 0 and is the city’s most famous. Tel. +53 78363564. Isle of Youth: Hotel Colony, 41 km southwest of New Gerona, dates from 1958 and is considered a true diver’s paradise, tel. +53 46 398181
Cayo Largo: Hotel & Villa Pelicano, loc. Playa Lindamar, with over 200 rooms and more than 100 cabañas, is the largest resort on the island, tel. +53 52485059.

What to visit

Very impressive is the walk along the Malecon,Havana‘s waterfront. If you then have a couple of days, moving north, you can visit the whole tobacco area and continuing on to get to Viñales, one of the most beautiful natural areas on the whole island. Here you can walk through these valleys divided by hills called Mogotes; you will almost feel like you are in China. Trinidad, a colonial city par excellence, is also very beautiful. In the capital you cannot fail to take a walk in the cathedral area and the surrounding small streets.

by Simona Spriano

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