The true lover of the sea and boating keeps away from the harbors and looks for the anchorages unknown to most or the less crowded coves, where they can enjoy the beauty and magic of the places and take unforgettable baths. It is in some of the most fascinating parts of the Mare Nostrum that we have chosen for you as many as 24 anchorages where even in the peak season one can enjoy truly unspoiled nature and dive into crystal clear waters: not forgetting a good seafood lunch. After telling you about Liguria, Tuscany and Lazio, today it is the turn of Sardinia and Campania…
SARDINIA
Porto Pozzo
41°13.3’N 09°17.1’E
Perfect anchorage to make a day trip to the Maddalena archipelago. Give bottom in the end of the deep inlet, in 2/5 meters of water. On the ground is a built-up area with stores and inns. In front of the most beautiful archipelago in the world.
The top address for eating is the restaurant pizzeria Da Antonio (0789 752019), which is located directly on the beach. Fish to choose from and on sight preparation on the huge grill, all the most delicious Sardinian foods, including Porceddu (ask in advance). Unmissable, but reservations must always be made. Just turn the corner to anchor in nearby Porto Pollo and enter the realm of surfers and kite surfers in an atmosphere reminiscent of the “hippy” period of the 1970s.
St. Mary’s Island. Santa Maria Cove
41°17.34’N 09°22.38’E
This stunning rocky cove with a beautiful beach is located within the Maddalena National Park. Anchoring is allowed here; watch out for two shoals at the entrance. There is nothing on the ground, but sleeping there is a unique experience. Bottom on 3/4 meters. Unforgettable experience.
The walk on the island is unique and will remain etched in your memories.Behind the beach of Cala Santa Maria is the Padule, a small brackish water marsh where numerous bird species nest. From the lighthouse at Punta Filetto, reached by a path from Cala Santa Maria, there is a splendid view of the entire archipelago and the Straits of Bonifacio.
La Maddalena Island. Cove Spreader
41°15.0’N 09°26.0’E
Immediately south of the well-equipped Porto Massimo is a very beautiful cove with a sandy beach and emerald water. Bottom on 3 to 5 meters. Ashore a bar with refreshments. Emerald water.
Ashore a bar with refreshments. Not to be missed while visiting the island: the fish market, next to the Town Hall, and a light aperitif/dinner at Bar Zì Antò (3939504487) in the Tegge area, on the cliff overlooking the island of Spargi, where you will also find beautiful ceramics for sale. To eat Tecla (0789 35532), a small tavern set on the steps of the village of La Maddalena in Piazza Umberto I. To buy something unique, the addresses are: Veleria Il Ponente, where you can buy bags, belts, jackets and clothing made entirely by hand.
Caprera Island. Coticcio Cove aka Tahiti
41°12.09’N 09°29.2’E
Two inlets inserted into the cove, one of the most famous in northern Sardinia. It is called Tahiti because of its beauty, reminiscent of Polynesia. During the day they are very busy. Nature, scenery, and water from ten out of ten. There is nothing on the ground, but it is unforgettable. Top.
There are two goodies to visit in Caprera: Garibaldi Museum (open only in the morning) and the Museo del Mare (contact 340 6909913 to find out when it is open). The first is the charming house where Garibaldi decided to spend his old age and where he died. The second is a collection of stories of fishermen and sailors’ lives, told by the objects. If you want to eat and stock up, you have to cross the bridge that connects Caprera with La Maddalena and head into the village.
Asinara Island
40°59.08’N 08°14.09’E
The island of Asinara, until a few years ago absolutely forbidden to tourism and boats because it is home to one of Italy’s most renowned security prisons, has recently been opened to tourism. A marine park since 1997, on the island it is possible to moor and spend the night in some beautiful coves equipped with 63 buoys in five bays by making reservations at Asinara Marina – www.asinaramarina.com – tel. 079512290- 3486913528.
Just setting foot on the ground and walking among the pristine nature is an experience that will be etched in your memory for life, we assure you. At www.visiteasinara.com you can find information about the island’s nine trails. But the discoveries are also and especially underwater: manta rays,bream,sole,salps…a wonder! Then also the donkeys, both the famous white ones and the gray Sardinian donkeys that roam free in the wild. There is a bar in the abandoned former prison. A curiosity, to understand the beauty of this island and its history as a maximum security prison download the film ‘La stoffa dei sogni,’ by Gianfranco Cabiddu with Sergio Rubini. He won a David di Donatello.
Fox Cove
41°04.89’N 09°32.38’E
Gorgeous wide cove with crystal clear water with shades between turquoise and emerald. At the end of the cove is the exclusive Hotel Cala di Volpe. A view of the bar is recommended.
Having an aperitif at the Hotel Cala di Volpe (5-star luxury) in one of its five bars is a VIP experience well worth it. We recommend The Wharf Bar with a rooftop terrace or the Atrium Bar where you can also enjoy light meals. A must-do in the Costa Smeralda area are the markets on the trail of rare items: Monday in Cannigione, Wednesday in Arzachena, Thursday in San Pantaleo, Friday in Palau, and Saturday in Baja Sardinia. The most refined is that of San Pantaleo, amidst Galluresque tapestries, precious fabrics and antique furniture.
Horse Tail Cove
40°50.6’N 09°43.1’E
A beautiful bay hemmed in by a beach, with some of the most beautiful water in northern Sardinia. On the ground, well built, there is a tourist village equipped with services, restaurant, bar. The view is magnificent, the islands of Molara and Tavolara are just ahead The view is magnificent.
At Tavolara, a must stop at Da Tonino Re di Tavolara restaurant (0789 58570-333 6766778), which noon and evening serves recipes of the best Sardinian seafood tradition and seafood, fresh fish on a terrace with spectacular views. The restaurant is held by a family that has handed down the honorary title of “king of Tavolara” for generations. Get the story.
Brandinchi Harbor
40°49.4’N 09°42.5’E
Immediately north of the easily accessible Marina di Puntaldia is a wide bay characterized by a shoal (scoglio testa di Moro) at the mouth, on land the two beaches of Lu Impostu and Cala Brandinchi. On the ground is a settlement. Excellent anchorage.
The water is Polynesian, the sand very fine, and from here in 1867, after a lucky escape from Caprera, Giuseppe Garibaldi embarked on the “San Francesco” to reach Piombino and attempt to liberate Rome. In Cala Brandinchi there is the kiosk at the I Giardini bathing establishment for breakfast, lunch and aperitifs. Behind the beach is a pond with herons, pink flamingos and black-winged stilts.
Porto Frailis
39°55.8’N 09°42.8’E
It is a small sandy inlet that opens up on the granite coast south of Cape Bellavista. The beach-in the central area-is not that big, but beautiful. The bay is sheltered from winds and surrounded by flat rocks on both sides. Onshore bars and restaurants. Close to Arbatax and Santa Maria Navarrese.
The area is home to the delicious mullet roe that is raised in the ponds, which can be bought for the ship’s galley. The area’s other typical Sardinian dish is Culurgiones, fresh pasta stuffed with potatoes, pecorino cheese, and mint. Exquisite. The chic seaside address to eat at with Sardinian cuisine reviewed by chef Clelia Bandini is Lucitta (3473234082). Try tartare or cut of Sheep, charcoal grilled fish, and a sumptuous seafood appetizer. We are in the Ogliastra area, where the land is rugged and spectacular. Not to be missed is a visit to Europe’s largest canyon, Su Gorropu, in Supramonte, with a trail to walk through Sardinian nature.
Carbonara Bay
39°07’N 09°30’E
On the west side of the Cape of the same name, dominated by a Tower, a very wide bay hemmed in by a white beach, to the west is the village of Solanas. Near the Marina of Villasimius. Sardinian paradise.
The curiosity if you want to put your nose underwater is that in the waters of the nearby Secca di Santa Caterina, at a depth of 10 meters, is the statue of Our Lady of the Castaway. Worth circumnavigating, 800 meters southeast is the small island of Cavoli with its impressive lighthouse. To eat, we recommend in the town of Villasimius the Stella d’Oro Restaurant (070791255), classic Sardinian flavors: Maialetto al Profumo di Mirto, Malloreddus alla Campidanese, Cheeses, Bottarga di Muggine along with Fregola con le Vongole. To finish a Seadas.
CAMPANIA
Procida Island. Corricella cove Chiaia beach
40°45.5’N 14°01.9’E
Beautiful cove where to anchor in front of a village with a small harbor, dominated by a castle. You may want to bottom out near the cliffs or in front of Chiaia beach on the opposite side of the village of Corricella. Onshore restaurants and bars. The best of the Neapolitan islands.
Anchor in front of Chiaia beach and reach by tender (but you can also have it picked up) the jetty at La Conchiglia restaurant (0818967602). In a homey atmosphere overlooking the village of Corricella, under the shelter of a pergola you will enjoy the best of Procidan cuisine: mussel and zucchini candy, mussel and broccoli rags, cappelletti with tellinis, seafood appetizers and freshly caught fish. To finish a real limoncello. Speaking of lemons, bring a supply on board-the ones grown on the island are special. A walk to Terra Murata is a must, from which you can admire a breathtaking view of the entire Gulf of Naples while admiring the medieval fortifications and the Neapolitan Republic of 1799.
Island of Ischia. St. Angel
40°41.8’N 13°53.8’E
Anchored outside the tiny harbor of Sant’Angelo, one of the most charming places on the entire island. On land it feels like a small Portofino, with bars, restaurants, and provisions. A fascinating village.
You’re in Ischia and if you don’t try the spas…then here’s the right address right in Sant’Angelo: Hotel Terme San Michele (081999276), and if you want to try the natural ones in the nearby Sorgeto Bay the thermal water springs form pools, and in the Agone beach the hot water springs gush from the ground. Aperitif or breakfast in the bars in the small square directly on the harbor. Great island restaurant of Ischitan specialties Il Bracconiere (081999436) for eating bucatini with rabbit sauce, the Ischitan specialty. In Sant’Angelo among the many restaurants we recommend Il Pescatore (081999206). By boat, the best bathing on the island can be done in the shelter of the islet of the Aragonese Castle with a stop then the bay of Cartaromana where there are small pools of warm water.
Isle of Capri. Little Marina
40°32.4’N 14°14.3’E
Anchoring in Capri for the night is challenging. Marina Piccola is an open anchorage overlooking the tiny village occupied by restaurants and bars. By bus you can easily reach the village. Definitely better, in good weather, to anchor here than in front of the Marina Grande harbor, where it is impossible to find space. The Faraglioni rocks are not far away. Postcard from Capri.
Capri is an island that is perhaps better experienced ashore than along the coast, although a dip in the Grotta Verde and a walk around Casa Malaparte, which still exemplifies a brilliant approach to life, should not be missed. For eating in and around Capri, you’re spoiled for choice at the top: at Paolino’s (0818376102), where you don’t know whether to prefer the food or its lemon garden, at the Capri Palace restaurant, Il Riccio (0818371380), or at Aurora’s (0818370181), which remains spectacular. For the ladies, must-haves to take aboard and show off in the city as well are the handcrafted Capri sandals and Jakie Kennedy/Onassis-style white pants…you’ll be spoiled for choice.
Bay of Good Sleep. Cape Palinuro
40°01.53’N 15°017.4’E
In the Cilento Park, near the Natural Arch, well protected from prevailing winds, very crowded during daylight hours but in the evening generally much quieter. Peak vegetation, water color variations range from green to blue. Easily recognizable in that in front of the roadstead is the Rabbit islet, the name of which recalls precisely the shape of the animal.
Cape Palinuro, in the Cilento Nature Park, is the conspicuous point from which a succession of coves, caves and phenomenal beaches begins. Some goodies: the Mingardo Beach, on the Gulf of Policastro side, also known as the Natural Arch, and the Blue Grotto (much better than the more famous one on Capri) 85 meters long and 90 meters wide that is located at Cala Guarracini. You are spoiled for choice, there are more than 30 caves in the area! On the Good Sleep beach there is a kiosk bar. One of the best restaurants in the area is Core a Core (0974931691) halfway between Palinuro harbor and the recommended anchorage. Local seafood cuisine, try grandma’s eggplant, crudo appetizer and fresh pasta.
Bay of the Infreschi. Marina di Camerota
39°59.6’N 15°25.4’E
A spectacular natural harbor where you moor at the buoys of the “Costa degli Infreschi e della Masseta” marine reserve. The shape is crescent-shaped set among the green vegetation and the different shades of blue of the waters. Crosswind Libeccio, bottom on 3/5 meters sand and posidonia.
Worth visiting ashore is the Pediment Tower and the small chapel of St. Lazarus. A short, spectacular quarter-hour walk from the beach takes you to the Oasi Infreschi Farm (3479066482). Unforgettable views and food that tastes of yesteryear such as Maracucciata (made from a local legume), eggplant in oil and eggplant ‘mbuttunate, fruits and vegetables picked straight from the garden. Two interesting facts: the water is sometimes not very salty because freshwater springs flow here; baia degli Infreschi was one of Gianni Agnelli’s favorite bays.
