In 1934, aboard a square-sailed schooner named “The Herald,” the great writer Georges Simenon set out to discover “his” Mediterranean. The “original” voyage that is recounted in the famous book “Mediterranean by Boat” goes from the French Riviera to Tunisia. We here will stop first, in Sicily, on his “French and Italian” route.
The full article can be found in Motor Boats 38.
Simenon’s Mediterranean
Imagine young Simenon’s astonishment at the sea at Hyeres when he first arrived there in 1924. He had been born in 1903, well away from the Mediterranean, in Liege, Belgium, and over the years had moved, yes, but to Paris. Having fallen in love with Porquerolles, he spent his summer vacations there for a decade, and in 1934, he left Porquerolles for his first Mediterranean cruise.
In this itinerary we propose a route that, taking a cue from some of the stops on Simenon’s journey-from Porquerolles to Elba and the Aeolian Islands-will lead you to discover a Mare Nostrum full of surprises.
The Golden Islands – France
A pristine oasis made up of crystal-clear water, rocky coastlines and labyrinthine pine forests, the Hyères Islands are not only the starting point of this itinerary but also a “stopover” to be discovered in depth. Following the example of Simenon himself who, after buying a small “pointu” – the typical local boat – spent his days going fishing and discovering the smallest secret corners of the islands named after the town that faces them, Hyères, halfway between Saint Tropez and Toulon. They are known as the “islands of gold”-Porquerolles, Port Cros, Ile du Levant and Ile de Bagaud-and it does not feel like landing on a patch of southern France, but rather on some Caribbean atoll.
The scent one can breathe, the colors and, above all, the water are strikingly reminiscent of what one finds in the Caribe. So much so that, precisely in order to preserve these magnificent features, since 1963, the islands have for large tracts been turned into a natural park in which even quite strict rules apply (updated regulations can be found at www.portcros-parcnational.fr). The first island to visit in Simenon’s footsteps is “his” Porquerolles: it is the largest of the Hyères and is characterized by the presence of numerous, large and small, sandy beaches interspersed with sheer cliffs.
Its lush interior full of Aleppo pines, eucalyptus trees and mimosas can be traversed far and wide thanks to the many marked hiking trails. By boat, on the other hand, the first from bay to be discovered is that of Plage d’Argent (43°00′ 50N – 06°11′ 40E): located west of the Port of Porquerolles, it is delightful and well sheltered thanks to the presence of the promontory of Pointe du Bon Renaud. The most famous cove on the island, however, is Anse du Langoustier (43°00′ 10N – 06°10′ 00E): considered one of the most beautiful bays in southern France, it owes its name to lobster fishermen. Much of its charm is due to the fact that it is surrounded by green Mediterranean scrub, hemmed in by two beaches and topped by a medieval fort.
Further east is Port Cros, the central island of the archipelago on which the two 17th-century fortresses of l’Etissac and de l’Eminence stand out. Arriving by sea, one can first reach the superb anchorage of the Anse du Port Man (43°01′ 00N – 06°25′ 00E): in the bay the anchorage is safe and the depths decrease gently. Finally here is the “outermost” island, Ile du Levant: once famous for being the paradise of European naturism, it is home to the beautiful beach of Les Grottes and the small nature reserve of Domaine des Arbousiers. To give bottom, however, one can choose the bay of Port de L’Ayguade (43°01′ 00N – 06°26′ 10E): wide and shallow it is located on the coast in front of the Anse du Port Man of Port Cros and very well sheltered.
Elba Island, where nature is queen
Italy’s third-largest island, Elba has always been a land of “passage” in the middle of the Mediterranean, and this is another reason why it is home to so many historical beauties that combine with the environmental and marine beauties that have instead been bestowed upon it by Mother Nature. A unique mix in just 223 square kilometers and 147 kilometers of coastline: this especially really packed with bays, beaches and cliffs from a thousand and one nights. As Simenon himself discovered: indeed, he wrote in the book that he preferred to enjoy Elba only from the sea.
Starting from the north and from the wide bay of Portoferraio, one can circumnavigate the island clockwise (there are 50 miles to cover for a complete “tour”) stopping first at the delightful cove of Seno d’Ortano (42°47′ 00N – 10°26′ 00E): it opens a mile from the cape of the same name, between steep rocks and a beautiful sandy beach, protected by a small island.
Turning the bow south, you reach the Ansa Barbarossa (42°45′ 60N – 10°24′ 60E): located east of the citadel of Porto Longone, overlooking the village of Porto Azzurro, it is scenic and enclosed by a beach. Arriving on the south side of the island, one enters the Stella Gulf: it is here that the Ansa di Margidore (42°45′ 60N – 10°19′ 30E) opens in the northwest corner, a delightful bay recognizable by its gray sand beach behind which is a lush pine forest.
Then considered one of the most beautiful coves on Elba is the Ansa di Cavoli (42°44′ 20N – 10°11′ 00E): not far from Marina di Campo, it encloses a beautiful beach of quartz grains. It is beaten in popularity only by the next one, the beach of Fetovaia, enclosed at the end of the Bay of the same name (42°43′ 60N – 10°09′ 50E): greenest because of the thick surrounding scrub and bluest because of the sea, it is protected by Monte Cenno. Finally, not to be missed is Biodola beach: located within the bay of the same name (42°48′ 00N – 10°15′ 00E) that also offers good anchorage, it is halfway between Marciana Marina and Portoferraio. Having closed the circle around the island then it is worth disembarking right in Portoferraio, a village that is the real “capital” of Elba and whose beauty is made up of towers, cathedral and ancient palaces to be discovered. And over all dominates the fortress of Forte Stella.
The seven pearls of Sicily
Simenon crossed them on his sail from Naples to the Strait of Messina: the Aeolian Islands in fact rise out of the sea between the coast of Calabria and Western Sicily. The archipelago, which has the shape of an “ipsilon,” is famous for being surrounded by a sea as clear as crystal: the Aeolian Islands then betray the common volcanic origin, which gives life to a small enchanted universe, made up of black lava beaches, barren hills showing bare rocks and sudden lava eruptions.
These are beautiful and rugged places that, at the same time, convey strong impressions of the power of nature and sweet and relaxing holiday atmospheres. There is much in short of that secret Mediterranean that the writer was looking for. What to see then? One would be quicker to say what not to see, but the first “super Aeolian” place to reach is the island of Vulcano, which reserves for everyone its “odorous” welcome: as soon as one approaches it, in fact, a penetrating smell of sulfur strikes the nostrils.
To bottom out then go to Cala di Mastro Minico (38°24′ 95N – 14°56′ 50E), a wild inlet surrounded by high cliffs and closed by a pebble beach. Those looking for the more mundane side of the islands then can stop in Panarea: but before discovering the nightlife, go to Calcara, a beach with small underwater fumaroles that allow “warm” and regenerating bathing. Instead, much wilder and seafaring is Salina: here you should not miss a stop at Cala di Pollara (38°34′ 80N – 14°48′ 30E): protected by Punta Perciato, it is a spectacular inlet with high cliffs and a black beach enclosed by a stacks. Finally, even at night you can see Stromboli, thanks to “iddu” the island volcano always in activity: it can be admired, for example, by dropping anchor in front of Ficogrande beach (38°48′ 28N – 15°14′ 00E).
