Happy Valentine’s Day to all! Here are some last-minute tips for a romantic candlelight dinner around Italy, by the sea or sea-flavored!
Guido in Rimini. There is, directly by the sea in a bathing establishment on Rimini’s Miramare waterfront, a Michelin-starred restaurant, Guido. Now, in these off-season months you can enjoy its excellent seafood cuisine without the summer crowding. Amazing, for us, the appetizers, among the first courses perfect agnolotti and spaghetti with oysters. Service lives up to the star, as does the bill, of course.
There is also a branch in Bologna, at the Fico food park. Guido, lungomare Spadazzi 12- Miramare – Rimini, tel. +390541374612
Trattoria Ferro di Cavallo in Palermo. A stone’s throw from the “Cala,” Palermo’s tourist port in the heart of the city, the right address is the “Ferro di Cavallo” trattoria, which has been an institution of Palermo cuisine since 1944. Don’t miss, on the very classic menu with all the great specialties of the area, the sardine meatballs (heavenly) and, when there is pasta with urchins (sublime) and, to finish, cannolo scavazzè. Rustic and cheerful atmosphere, with summer outdoor area. Trattoria Ferro di Cavallo, Via Venezia, 20 – Palermo, tel. +39 091 331835
Stazzu li paladini, Olbia (OT). A favorite spot for residents of Porto Rotondo, Cala dei Sardi, Portisco who drive a few miles inland to get a good, typically Sardinian meal at this fixed-price agriturismo that offers hearty, well-made dishes in the Gallurese land tradition. Excellent appetizers and starters, price of 40 euros per head (acceptable given the area). Agriturismo Stazzu Li Paladini, Via Sole Ruju, 22, 07026 Olbia, +393355855068
Marmoreo in Mazara del Vallo (Trapani). Newly renovated, Marmoreo, keeps intact all its culinary peculiarities that make it a must-see stop for those who love seafood cuisine. Triumphs of raw shellfish and shrimp, platters of crustaceans and fritters, plateaus of cuttlefish and meatballs, and then tuna, amberjack, skate patties, marinated anchovies–everything comes from the catch of Mazara del Vallo fishing boats. Restaurant Antico Borgo Marinaro “Marmoreo,” Via Lungo Mazzaro Ducezio, 72, Mazara del Vallo, tel.39 0923 931619
Trattoria della nonna, Gargano (Foggia). On the beach at Mattinata Bay, Trattoria della Nonna is a local institution worth a visit. It dominates fish in every nuance. We loved the squid ink flan, ravioli with mint, mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and almonds, and fritto misto with lots of fried seaweed. There is also an eponymous Bed&Breakfast by the same managers, nestled in the olive trees, if you then want to stay for the evening. Trattoria dalla Nonna, Loc. Funni-Mattinata (FG), Gargano, 0884.559205
Langosteria, Paraggi (Genoa). Inside Bagni Fiore in Paraggi Bay was born Langosteria Paraggi, open from June to September from 9 a.m. to midnight every day in the enchanting bay just a stone’s throw from Portofino. Chic but casual atmosphere, with Recco focaccia coming from Manuelina, which has set up its own oven inside the venue, offers five different types of menus depending on the hours. Mostly fish. Langosteria, at the Fiore Paraggi baths (Genoa), 0185 046284
Longnose fishing boat restaurant in Savona. Do you crave fresh, truly freshly caught fish? Then go to Savona and take a seat on the quay on Sbarbaro Street where three guys disembark from their fishing boat Alalunga and set up a mobile tavern. The menu consists of only two courses: mixed fried fish cartocci and fish burger sandwiches; local craft beer to drink. Open only in the evening every day from 6 to 11 p.m. Alalunga, Via Calata Pietro Sbarbaro, 17100 Savona, 339 168 4188
Al Convento in Cetara (Salerno). Just a stone’s throw from the small port of Cetara, one of the most charming villages on the Amalfi coast, is the temple of anchovies (anchovies in Ligurian). It’s called Al convento, in a casual atmosphere on the beautiful terrace, you can enjoy this blue fish there, in every variation. Pasta alla colatura di alici or alla puttanesca are unsurpassed. Excellent wines from Campania, try the Biancolella from Ischia, which goes perfectly with the anchovies. At the convent,Piazza S. Francesco, 16, Cetara (SA), 089 261039
Oysters&Wine in Milan. Agreed, there is no sea in Milan but a breath of saltiness you can breathe it in, as if you were at the sea, at Ostriche&Vino. The saltiness you breathe is that of a Breton bistro. In a true sailor’s atmosphere you can taste, at acceptable prices, the best oysters in town, as well as whole crabs and delicious king-size claws. The Italian touch comes from splendid Mazara del Vallo shrimp. Definitely book. Ostriche & Vino,Viale Col di Lana, 5, Milan, 02 5810 0259
Marino to Trieste. In the alleys behind Piazza Unità d’Italia, Europe’s largest square overlooking the sea, is the lair of sailors participating in the Barcolana, the world’s most crowded regatta. It is called Da Marino, and we tried it in early October. The atmosphere is that of the harbor taverns described in 19th-century seafaring books: exposed barrels and curious objects hanging on the walls. You eat and drink (a lot!) the true Trieste way and even go just for an aperitif or after dinner. Always crowded, make reservations. Trattoria da Marino, via del ponte 5/a, Trieste, 040 366596 – 328 0778709
Villa of Roses in Termoli (Campobasso). Directly by the sea outside the town of Termoli, Villa delle Rose Restaurant is the chic seafood venue in the area. If you have a craving for raw and cooked fish and Molise cuisine, make an enjoyable stop. We enjoyed the fish brodetto with shellfish, homemade orecchiette pasta with mussels clams and arugula, and a grill made on sight. All washed down with still white Molise. Villa delle Rose, SS16, 122, 86039 Termoli (CB), Tel 0875 52565
A’ Taverna do’ Re in Naples. One of the temples of traditional Neapolitan cuisine. Starting with cod in three variations, paccheri with mussels and zucchini flowers, and eggplant pollastiello style (photo below) stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella, browned and fried. Or Neapolitan-style meatballs or sausages with fiarielli.Or traditional desserts. Post lunch with a walk through the heart of Naples. A’ taverna do’ Re, Piazza Municipio (adjacent to Teatro Mercadante), Naples. Tel. 081 5522424
